I am constantly researching the latest developments in active ingredients from around the world. Many of the stellar ingredients I have found over the years sometimes take years to become mainstream and some never make it, primarily because of price. For me price has never been the primary driver. Most importantly for me, the ingredients I seek must have proven efficacy, they must be ethical and they must be sustainable. And from time to time I come across a stand out.

One such star is Baobab Oil (Adansonia Digitata).The Baobab is often referred to as The Tree of Life and with good reason for it provides shelter, clothing, food, and water for the animal and human inhabitants of the African Savannah regions. The cork-like bark and huge stem are fire resistant and are used for making cloth and rope. The leaves are used as condiments and medicines. The fruit, called “monkey bread”, is edible, and full of Vitamin C.

Although known to African societies for thousands of years for its medicinal benefits, and used by the woman of the Savannah to protect their skin from the harsh environment for centuries, it is only now being appreciated by a much broader market for its skincare credentials.

I really love this lightweight, fast absorbing oil that is extracted from the seed of the fruit. I much prefer it to the heavier Rosehip Oil and it has many additional benefits. It is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and F plus EFAs (essential fatty acids) Omega 3, 6 & 9. Vitamins A and F rejuvenates and renews cell membranes, the Vitamin E is a superior antioxidant that fights the ageing process and the EFAs add moisture, hydration and protection for the skin.

Apart from the moisturising and hydrating properties, Baobab oil also improves the tone and elasticity in the skin and is very soothing. Baobab oil does not clog the pores and is a wonderful ingredient for those with rosacea. It can also help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
I have included this vitamin rich oil in Ultra Day, Rise and Shine Coffee Elixir and Daily Male.

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Hyaluronic Acid was discovered by scientist Karl Meyer in the 1930s. It was first recognised in the vitreous humor in the eyes of cattle. Basically there are two methods of production of hyaluronic acid – one from rooster combs and the other is synthetically produced. CR Formulations does not use any ingredients derived from or tested on animals.
Hyaluronic Acid is a natural occurring glycosaminoglycan (large sugar molecule). It is the key component of several injectable wrinkle fillers. It is also present in human and animal connective tissues and makes up around 80% of the human eye. It acts like a shock absorber. Humans have a significant level of HA in our bodies when we are born but unfortunately it diminishes as we age. HA is a super anti-ageing ingredient and the results of studies have led it to be widely referred to as “the fountain of youth”.
So how does this wonderful ingredient work?
Hyaluronic Acid holds 1000 times its own weight in water. Topically Hyaluronic Acid penetrates the dermis and boosts the elasticity and hydration of the skin giving the skin a plumped effect. There are other good humectants on the market but the reason I love Hyaluronic Acid so much is that it adjusts to the skin’s need for moisture depending on the humidity and climate. It is a must have on a long flight. It will provide a protective coating, retain and hold moisture in the skin and maintain levels of collagen and elastin. A truly marvellous anti-ageing ingredient.

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One common myth is that if you have a skin problem, be it acne, congested, dull or oily skin it can be addressed by constant and zealous scrubbing. This is wrong. Most cleansers have a surfactant of some sort and some of these can be extremely harsh on the skin. They can also remove the good oils that the skin produces to protect itself. Unless you have excessively oily skin there is also no need to cleanse your skin twice a day but even if you do,do it gently.

The ideal time to cleanse your skin is at night, the main purpose being to remove grime, dirt and make up. And just a tip here, unless you are using waterproof mascara there is no need to have a separate cleanser for your eyes. A good cleanser will do both.

I like to use a damp muslin cloth and naturally I use my Rice Milk Cleanser. It is gentle and suitable for all skin types. Organic Rice Milk and Watermelon Seed Oil help to balance the skin while Nettle extract and Burdock remove any impurities. Yucca is there for its cleansing properties and Honey Myrtle and Petitgrain lend a beautiful citrus aroma.

After application I simply remove with warm water. This leaves my skin cleansed, smooth soft and balanced. A quick splash with Tonique to hydrate and I’m ready to apply my serums and or creams.

Obviously any skincare product works better on clean and receptive skin.

I also give my face a splash of Tonique in the morning as a boost. It’s not really necessary but I like to spoil myself.

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Hydroquinone, long thought to be the safest and most effective for age spots, sun damage and hyperpigmentation, has been the subject of much controversy, with many groups calling for the FDA in the United States to ban the compound. In some countries Hydroquinone is already illegal. Side effects from regular use of Hydroquinone can cause serious irritation to the skin, especially for people who have sensitive skin or allergies. In extreme case it can cause redness, itching and a burning sensation. When looking for a skin-whitening product ensure that it does not contain Hydroquinone.

Fortunately there are several eminently suitable natural replacements. CR Formulations’ skin whitening serum ‘Lighten Up’ contains a botanical complex of 7 organically grown plants from the Swiss Alps, which include Primula, Alchemilla Vulgaris, Veronica and Yarrow. These plants were selected for their ability to inhibit Tyrosinase, the enzyme, which is responsible for the production of melanin (skin pigment). It has the same effect as Hydroquinone but without the harmful side effects.
To maximise the efficacy of these ingredients, Lighten Up also has Bearberry Extract, derived from the Uva Ursi plant. This contains a natural form of Hydroquinone but is more stable and does not become pro-oxidant when exposed to sunlight and it is not harmful to the skin.

Licorice Root Extract is also an ingredient used in Lighten Up because it contains Glabridin, which is responsible for the skin whitening function. Studies have shown the Licorice Root extract can provide an excellent brightening effect but remains non-toxic to the melanin forming cells. It also has great anti-inflammatory properties.
Lighten Up also contains Niacinamide, commonly known as vitamin B3. It is well known as a great skin whitener and is also known to be a very effective ingredient for acne.

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Serums come in different forms – gels, oils, liquids and light lotions. They are generally regarded more as a treatment for the skin. They can address problems such as acne, rosacea, pigmentation, oily and ageing skin. Serums have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin to deliver the active ingredients. They are usually highly concentrated and contain more ingredients than most creams. A good serum should contain ingredients such as peptides, collagen, vitamins and nutrients and I have to say I love serums.

So, does that mean serums instead of creams. No, there is certainly a place for both. There is nothing nicer than applying a beautiful cream to the skin. Good night creams can give the skin a radiance and a luxurious and nurturing feel.They will hold and maintain moisture and will leave a protective layer on the skin. Face creams nourish, soften and protect the skin. They treat the surface of the skin. And applying a beautiful cream represents ‘Me Time’.

So the answer is, there is a place for both.

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There are about 200 species of Iris.

Iris Extract is botanically derived from the roots of the Iris – Iris Florintina and Iris Iridaceae. Iris was named after the Greek goddess of the rainbow, who was a messenger of the Olympian gods.

Iris flower extract has been demonstrated in clinical studies to reduce the depth of wrinkles, hold and maintain moisture and increase elasticity. Iris is rich in Isoflavones that helps to revitalise  thanks to its oestrogen-like activity. It helps those fine lines and wrinkles. Researchers now classify the Iris Extract as an anti-ageing ingredient in skin care.

You can find Iris Florentia in Crème Absolute and Ultra Day.

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Your skin naturally produces oil because it needs it to heal, protect, lubricate and moisturise. Some people believe that it is wrong to use oil on your face because it congests the skin causing pimples, blackheads and the like. Usually these problems are caused by hormone activity or dead skin cells and not due to the oil itself. One fact that I find is not widely known is that oils can actually dissolve other oils of a similar chemical structure.

Basically a cream is made from wax, water and oils. The science of formulating a fabulous cream comes down to the right oil selection. It wasn’t that long ago that many of the oils used in skincare were petroleum based. And I’m talking about the leading brands as well. Fortunately, in recent years most good skincare use naturally derived oils. The trick is to use oils that will balance the the skin. There are some really fabulous fruit and vegetable oils that we can use these days. Take Watermelon seed oil for example – very balancing and calming. Baobab oil from the Tree of Life, packed with Vitamins A,C,and E. Marula, a beautiful oil with a very high Vitamin C content. In Africa, the Marula is valued so highly that to give someone a Marula kernel represents the greatest mark of friendship. Red Raspberry seed oils, with its natural sun  protection, Cranberry, Goji Berry, Blackcurrant and Kiwi Seed oils all with great antioxidant properties that protect and help repair the skin.

All of these oils are fine in texture and are easily absorbed into the skin leaving it feeling silky and smooth. They do not clog the pores. I use oils on my skin morning and night either alone, over one of my serums or under my day or night cream. It gives my skin a polished look and feel.

Well known and widely used oils such as Apricot Kernel oil and Sweet Almond oil certainly have their place. I don’t use these in my products because in my view there are many other wonderful oils with greater properties but for use in massage they are eminently suitable.

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I am constantly being asked about antioxidants. What are they? What do they do and why do I like them so much in skin care?

Firstly, it is important to remember that the skin is the body’s largest organ. Antioxidants are chemicals that protect the skin cells from the inside by neutralising external forces (such as damage from the sun, pollution, wind, and temperature.

Antioxidants are necessary because they combat free radicals. Free radicals are by-products that are formed when oxygen is used by the body. They start a chain reaction under the skin’s surface, which begins a process of destruction. Without getting too technical, the aftermath of this reaction is that the structure of the skin is damaged and the cellular structure is weakened.

Antioxidants in skincare products can do a lot for the health and appearance of your skin, including reducing the signs of ageing. It is interesting to note that antioxidants work 25% better applied topically then taken internally for the skin.

To get the maximum benefit and best results from antioxidants in skincare, you need a range of different antioxidants. Green Tea for example has EGCG (epigallocatechin-3 gallate) that protects the DNA in skin cells from sun damage, pomegranate has ellagic and punicic acid and these two antioxidants are outstanding free radical scavengers. Coenzyme Q10 is another, as is Vitamin A. And don’t forget the those super berries, Blueberry, Raspberry (high sun protection  Cranberry, Blackcurrant all have different antioxidants that the skin needs to minimise age spots and reduce inflammation. Black raspberry is one of nature’s most potent antoxidants by virtue of the fact it contains up to 85% EFAs (essential fatty acids) and is high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. They are all cell communicators.

So, when it comes to good skincare the old adage of strength in numbers is the way to go.

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